How to apply F2 EcoHull (Step by Step)Updated 5 hours ago

F2 EcoHull is a dedicated fouling-release system – not a traditional antifouling coating. When applied correctly, you get a very smooth, robust surface that is easy to clean and delivers strong performance over many seasons.

The application is manageable for DIY boat owners as well, as long as you take your time and work through the steps one by one. This guide walks you step by step through preparation, coating and maintenance.

1. Preparation and environmental conditions

The success of the application strongly depends on proper preparation. Depending on boat size and hull condition, plan around 2–5 working days for sanding, cleaning and coating. 

1.1 Checklist – what you should have ready

• F2 EcoPrimer (if required, see section 3.1)
• F2 EcoHull Adhesive Coat
• F2 EcoHull Top Coat
• F2 Degreasing Solution
• Random orbital sander with grit P80–180
• Firm foam rollers or lint-free felt rollers with rounded edges
• Fine brush for edges, through-hulls and tight areas
• Clean buckets/sponges for cleaning and degreasing

1.2 Environmental conditions & parameters

Make sure the conditions are suitable – this lets you work without stress and achieve an even result.

2. Substrate preparation

A clean, dry and sound substrate is the basis for good adhesion and long-term durability.

2.1 Dealing with existing coatings

• Inspection: Carefully inspect existing coatings (e.g. old antifouling): are there blisters, cracks, flaking or soft areas?
• Removal: Anything that is damp, loose, soft or brittle should be removed thoroughly until you reach a clean, sound substrate.
• When to strip completely? Especially with many, thick layers of antifouling, it is often advisable to go back to the primer. This gives you a clean base on which F2 EcoHull can achieve optimal adhesion.
• Silicone: Silicone-based coatings must be completely removed. Silicone must not be overcoated, as it severely impairs adhesion.

2.2 Uncoated surfaces

• Recommended barrier coat: For new or freshly sanded surfaces we recommend applying a solvent-free barrier coat (e.g. Hempel High Protect II) before you start coating with F2.
• Solvent-based primers: If you use a solvent-based primer, it must cure for at least 7 days at 20 °C so that all solvents can evaporate fully.
  Afterwards:
  • Lightly sand the surface with P180
  • Degrease with F2 Degreasing Solution
  • Apply F2 EcoHull Adhesive Coat directly
    (in this case no F2 EcoPrimer is required).

2.3 Sanding and cleaning

1. Sanding: Sand with a random orbital sander and grit P80–180 until you get an even, matte, smooth surface. Work edges and hard-to-reach areas by hand.
2. Degreasing: Dilute F2 Degreasing Solution at a ratio of 1:10 with fresh water.
3. Wiping technique: Use a clean sponge and wipe in one direction only – do not scrub back and forth. Repeat if necessary until no residues are visible.
4. Rinsing & drying: Then rinse with fresh water and allow the surface to dry completely.
5. Solvent-free zone: Do not use solvents to clean the surface. Solvents can leave residues that impair adhesion of F2 EcoHull.

3. Coating steps

 For all coats the goal is an even, continuous wet film with a slight sheen. If the layer looks very patchy or dry, use a bit more material. 

 Target coverage: approx. 10 m² per litre (per component). 

3.1 F2 EcoPrimer (if required)

1. Mixing: Stir BASE thoroughly, then add ACTIVATOR and mix carefully (ratio 60:40).
2. Rest time: Allow the mixture to stand briefly so trapped air can escape.
3. Pot life: Working time is approx. 30 minutes at 20 °C. Only mix as much as you can apply calmly within this time.
4. Application: Apply a uniform, well-covering coat with a roller. Use the so-called lay-off technique: roll horizontally first, then vertically to achieve an even film.
5. Waiting time (minimum): approx. 4 hours (touch-dry) at 20 °C.
6. Waiting time (maximum): up to 24 hours. If this time is exceeded, the surface must be sanded again and degreased before you continue.

3.2 F2 EcoHull Adhesive Coat

1. Preparation: Open the tin and stir the contents thoroughly in the tin. Do not thin.
2. Application: Apply a well-covering coat to create an even, smooth surface. Again, the lay-off technique (horizontal then vertical) helps to even out the film.
3. Support areas: Leave a strip of approx. 5 cm around the support pads/blocks uncoated for later painting after re-blocking.
4. Waiting time (minimum): approx. 4 hours (touch-dry) at 20 °C.
5. Waiting time (maximum): There is no maximum overcoating interval. However, the surface must be clean and dry before applying the Top Coat.

3.3 F2 EcoHull Top Coat

1. Preparation: Open the tin and stir the contents thoroughly in the tin. Do not thin.
2. Application: Apply a uniform, well-covering coat. Work section by section (e.g. port side, starboard side, stern) to keep track of your progress.
3. Correction: Roll out or correct runs and drips as soon as possible while the coating is still wet.
4. Support areas: Again, leave a strip of approx. 5 cm around the support pads/blocks. These areas will be overcoated after re-blocking.

4. Haul-out, curing and maintenance

4.1 Re-blocking (moving the stands/blocks)

• Waiting time before loading: Wait at least 36 hours before craning the boat to move the stands or applying higher loads to the surface.
• Tackiness: The Top Coat may still feel slightly tacky after application – this is normal and will disappear as curing progresses.
• Supporting curing: Once the Top Coat is touch-dry (after approx. 4–6 hours), you can gently moisten the surface. This supports the curing process.
• Crane slings: Make sure the lifting slings are clean. Use padding where necessary and secure the boat by tying the slings together to prevent slipping.
• Repairs after re-blocking: After moving the stands, prepare the newly exposed areas as before (sand, clean) and apply the missing coats (Adhesive Coat and Top Coat). Make sure the new coats overlap well with the existing coating.

4.2 Launching and initial cleaning

• Launching: The boat can be launched once the Top Coat on the last painted areas is touch-dry (4–6 hours). Avoid point loads on these fresh areas during launching.
• Maximum time on the hard: There is no maximum time the boat can remain on the hard. It does not need to be launched within a fixed period.
• Full cure: The coating is fully cured after approximately 8–12 weeks in the water.
• Initial cleaning (“early clean”): After these first 8–12 weeks, a gentle initial clean is recommended to remove the first biofilm. Use a soft cloth or sponge – aggressive brushes or pressure washers are not necessary.
• Ongoing maintenance: After that, in most cruising grounds it is sufficient to gently wipe off any growth at regular intervals. This keeps the surface clean and maintains the performance of the fouling-release system.

 Detailed application instructions and data sheets for download are available at Data sheets & downloads .