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Safe Craning & Shore StorageUpdated an hour ago

Please note: The following are recommendations only. As we are not familiar with the specific conditions at your yard, full responsibility for the safe execution of all lifting and storage operations remains with the crane operator, the yard, and your team on site.

🧊 Why F2 EcoHull requires special care

F2 EcoHull is a fouling release coating, not a conventional antifouling paint. Instead of using biocides, it works by creating an exceptionally smooth, low-friction surface that prevents marine growth from gaining a foothold. That smoothness is precisely what makes it effective — but it also has direct consequences for how the boat must be handled on land.

On a conventional antifouling, slings and jackstands grip the hull surface through friction. On F2 EcoHull, that friction is significantly reduced by design. This means slings can slide apart more easily during a lift, and jackstands are more prone to shifting or slowly walking out during storage.

The measures described below are specifically aimed at compensating for this reduced surface friction. They are not difficult to implement, but they should be understood and applied before any lift begins.

⚠️ Slip hazard — read before craning

Crane slings will slide on an F2 EcoHull surface more easily than on conventional antifouling. Jackstands are at greater risk of shifting or walking out. Both risks require active countermeasures — awareness alone is not sufficient.


⏱ Curing time before craning

After the Top Coat is applied, the coating needs time to become pressure-resistant before it can safely bear the load of the lifting slings. Craning too early risks permanent deformation or damage to the coating at sling contact points.

Minimum wait
36 hours
After Top Coat application
Touch-dry
~4 hours
Not sufficient for craning
Speed up curing
Mist with water
Lightly moisten once touch-dry
⚠️
Touch-dry is not pressure-readyThe coating may feel dry to the touch after 4 hours but is not yet resistant to the concentrated load of a sling. Always wait the full 36 hours for a freshly applied coating.

If the coating was applied more than a few days ago and the boat has been sitting on stands, the 36-hour requirement has already been met and there is no need to wait further before craning.

🪢 Sling setup — checklist

The core risk during craning is that the slings slide apart on the smooth hull surface. Please work through the checklist below before attaching the slings.

  • Most important Tie the slings together under the hull. Connect the two slings to each other so they cannot slide apart during the lift. On a conventional hull, friction often keeps slings in place on its own — on F2 EcoHull, this cannot be relied upon.
  • Protect the coating Place painter's fleece or equivalent soft padding between each sling and the hull. This distributes the sling load over a larger area and prevents direct abrasion on the coating surface. Avoid any hard edges, buckles, or gritty surfaces in direct contact with the hull.
  • Check sling condition Slings must be clean and free of sand, grit, or sharp edges. Any abrasive particles trapped between sling and hull will scratch the coating during the lift, even with fleece in place. Inspect and clean if necessary.
  • Curing time confirmed For freshly coated boats: at least 36 hours have passed since the Top Coat was applied. Previously coated boats that have been sitting on stands do not need to wait.
  • Expect tackiness The Top Coat may feel slightly tacky — this is completely normal and disappears once the boat is in the water. Do not attempt to wipe, sand, or treat the surface because of it.
💡
Fleece materialStandard painter's fleece (Malervlies) works well and is available at any hardware store. Moving blankets or foam sheeting are also suitable. The goal is to cushion and distribute load — not to grip.

⚓ Shore storage on jackstands

The same surface property that causes slings to slide during craning also affects jackstands. The hull contact points have less grip than on a conventional antifouling, which means stands can slowly shift or walk out — particularly if the yard surface is not perfectly level, or if there are vibrations from nearby equipment or traffic.

This risk is not dramatic under normal conditions, but it is real and must be actively managed, especially for longer storage periods.

⚠️
Do not rely on friction aloneA stand that appears stable when first positioned may shift gradually over hours or days due to the low-friction hull surface. Physical bracing — not just careful placement — is necessary.

🔒 How to secure the stands

Use the measures below in combination. The more that are in place, the more secure the boat will be — particularly for longer storage periods or exposed locations.

1

Use sufficient stands

Use enough stands — and more than you might typically use for a comparable boat. More contact points mean lower load per stand and less risk of individual stands shifting. Err on the side of more rather than fewer.

2

Cross-brace with chains or straps

Connect all stands to each other with chains or straps. This prevents individual stands from moving independently. Even if one stand starts to shift, the others will hold it in place. This is the single most effective measure.

3

Strap stands to the boat's cleats

Run additional straps from the stands up to the boat's deck cleats. This creates a secondary restraint: even if a stand starts to walk outward, the strap to the cleat will catch it. Use webbing straps with soft hooks to protect the deck hardware.

4

Ground anchors or fixed tie-down points

For exposed locations or long storage periods, run straps or chains from the boat's cleats or chainplates directly to ground anchors or fixed points on the yard surface. This practice is standard in hurricane yards and adds security that is entirely independent of the stands.

💡
Padding at stand contact pointsSoft padding (painter's fleece, rubber matting, or foam) between each stand head and the hull is good practice regardless of coating type. With F2 EcoHull, it also protects the smooth surface from indentation or scratching at contact points.
ℹ️
Which measures to applyShort haul-out (1–2 days, sheltered yard): measures 1 and 2. Storage of a week or more: add measure 3. Exposed yard, winter storage, or high-wind location: all four measures should be in place.

🖌 After craning — finishing the jackstand areas

The areas where the jackstands were in contact with the hull are not coated during the main application. Once the boat is hanging in the slings, these spots become accessible and must be finished before launch.

1

Sand and clean the bare spots

Sand with P180. Clean thoroughly with F2 Degreasing Solution diluted 1:10 with fresh water. Let dry completely — moisture under the coating causes detachment.

2

Build up the layers

Apply missing layers in sequence: EcoPrimer (if substrate is bare) → Adhesive Coat → Top Coat. Each layer needs to be touch-dry before the next (~4 hours at 20 °C).

3

Overlap the existing edges

Work each layer so that it overlaps the surrounding already-coated surface. If a 5 cm border was left around the stand areas during the original application, the overlap will produce a seamless result.

4

Launch when touch-dry

No need to wait the full 36 hours for these small patches. Launch as soon as the Top Coat on the reworked areas is touch-dry — approximately 4–6 hours after application.

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